In this heat, all I want to do is cook from A New Turn in the South. Hugh Acheson is
from Ottawa, but he cooks in Athens, Georgia, and in Atlanta.
And his kind of cooking—definitely southern, with refreshing
twists that will cool you right down—sits well with me on these hot, humid
Toronto days.
When I bought a basket of peaches at the market, I went
straight for Acheson’s cookbook.
Admittedly, peach pie that needs to be baked for forty-five
minutes is not his best recipe for
the hottest days. You have a choice: Either
wait for a cool day, or promise yourself you won’t lose it and kill someone in
your excruciatingly hot kitchen.
Peach Pie
Adapted from Hugh Acheson’s recipe in A New Turn in the South
Pie crust
(your favourite butter-based recipe), enough for two layers of a 9-inch pie
plate
½ cup packed brown sugar
1/3 cup white sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling
3 tablespoons
arrowroot OR 2 tablespoons cornstarch plus 1 tablespoon white flour
2 teaspoons
cinnamon
Pinch of salt
Peaches
(Acheson recommends 8 large ones, I used a dozen smallish ones), peeled, pitted
and sliced)
1 ½ cold butter, cubed
1 egg, beaten
First, prepare your dough. Roll out the bottom on a floured
surface, and place into a 9-inch pie plate, trimming the excess. Roll out the
top dough, and punch out a few decorative (and practical—the steam will escape)
shapes with a small cookie cutter. You can reserve the punched out pieces to
decorate the top of your pie, too.
In a large bowl, combine the sugars (except for the 1
tablespoon, which you’ll reserve for the top of the pie), arrowroot, cinnamon
and salt. Mix in the peach slices until coated evenly. Immediately (and before
the whole thing becomes a goopy mess), pour into the prepared pie dish. Scatter
the cubed butter over the fruit, and place the second layer on top, pinching,
crimping and trimming to make it tidy. With a brush, spread a thin layer of egg
(if you are decorating your pie with the cutouts, coat the under side of the
cutouts to make them stick). Sprinkle the sugar on top.
Place the pie in the freezer for 15 minutes or so, while you
heat your oven to 415F. Place a large cookie sheet in the oven to heat it up.
That is something I’ve just learned from Acheson. I believe it helps distribute
the heat evenly across the pie crust.
To bake the pie, place the plate on the pre-heated cookie
sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven to 370F and bake for a further
30 minutes, or until the crust is golden, and the peach filling is bubbling
enthusiastically. Serve with much
vanilla ice cream and preferably outside, under the shade.
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